In the historic city of Lahore, on the road that led southwards to Multan, the Chauburji gateway remains of an extensive garden known to have existed in Mughal times. The establishment of this garden is attributed to Mughal Princess Zeb-un-Nissa, 1646 A.D., which appears in one of the inscriptions on the gateway. Zeb-un-Nissa was Emperor Aurangzeb’s eldest daughter: patron of the arts, poet, and a keeper of several lovers, according to rumours. Born in 1638 to Dilras Bano of the Persian Safavid dynasty, she was Aurangzeb’s close companion for several years. Loved by Aurangzeb, she was named carefully to reflect his station.
The gateway consists of four towers (chau: four, burji: tower) and contains much of the brilliant tile work with which the entire entrance was once covered. Originally it was gateway to the Garden of Zeb-un-nisa]] or Zebinda Begum, the accomplished daughter of Aurangzeb. This garden is believed to have been extended from Nawankot in the south to the main city of Lahore towards north. However, no traces of such an expansive garden are now available. A fragmentary inscription on the eastern archway records that the garden was built in A.H. 1056 i.e. 1646 A.D. Although most of the inscriptions have been lost, on the upper-most part of the construction Ayat-ul-Kursi can be seen in Arabic script in blue and worked in porcelain. Others include two couplets written in Persian above the arch: “This garden, in the pattern of the garden of Paradise, has been founded (missing line)… The garden has been bestowed on Mian Bai. By the bounty of Zebinda Begum, the Lady of the Age.” It is thus understood that it was commissioned by Sahib-e-Zebinda (one endowed with elegance), Begum-e- Dauran (Lady of Ages) and was bestowed upon Mian Bai Fakhrunnisa (Pride of Women), the favourite female attendant of the princess.
Without doubt Chauburgi is one of the most beautiful places to see in Lahore, specially at night when all lit up. Unfortunately, we haven’t been able to preserve the gardens around it and overall its in a sorry state. The ugly billboards around it have also destroyed its beauty.
Photo Credits
1. Chauburji: Sir Cam
2. Zeb-un-Nissa’s photograph has been taken from Raza Rumi’s article.
